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Country Discussion Topics
To add your comments to this topic, click on one of the 'Reply' links below.

Troybuilt, MTD, etc
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Old John    Posted 02-24-2004 at 06:44:12       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Hi Y'all,

Last Spring, when we were getting ready to move out here to the Country, we looked for a riding mower, at Lowe's. We didn't think we could afford the extra thousand for a John Deere, so we looked at cheaper models.

We found that MTD, maker of Yardman, had bought out, Troy-built, Bolens & Cub-Cadet. All of them are owned by the same manufacturing company. They all had the same Troy-built operating books & papers with them.
It must make MTD the largest of the mower makers,
in the Country. Best way to beat the competition........buy 'em out.
We ended up buying a Bolens 21 hp. w/ a 46 in. cut.........it works just fine.
Guess it doesn't matter much which one you buy though.
'Til later.......
Old John



Old John    Posted 09-10-2005 at 06:18:44       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Hi Y'all,
That Bolens is going strong, so far.
I bought it in '03. First summer, I broke an axle
hitting a hole, out here on the hill. I had that replaced.
Last Summer I had to replace the belt on the mower deck, when i ran over some brush & got a stick caught in it. That ate it up quick.
Oh, & I had to replace a ball-joint. 15 minute job. I replaced another ball joint, on the other
side this Season. I have a spare on hand.
I keep hitting holes & posts, hunnh. Rough ground
out here, on these hills.

DSW Sharon says I need to run it slower.
I keep the blades sharp on my grinder & keep
the oil changed. I run it about 110 to 130 hrs a Summer.
I guess I can't complain about it so far.
It has been a good serviceable piece of equipment.

I prob'ly put about 30 to 40 hrs. a year on the
DR Brush mower, too. We have a 15 hp, model.
Only thing i broke on it is the right drag-skid.
I hooked it on stumps a few times, backing up.
After straightening it out w/ a piece of pipe
a few times, it snapped off. Guy at the welding shop put it back with a "tig" welder. Seems even stronger now.
It'd prob'ly be easier, maintaining this little
13 acres, if I got all the trees & brush cut outa the way, got a fence put up, and got some brush-cows or goats, to keep the grass & weeds browsed down. I'm getting there. Takes money to put up fence.
Have a good-un Y'all,
'Til later,
Old John


mickey shirah    Posted 09-09-2005 at 17:54:04       [Reply]  [Send Email]
I purchase 17hp mower from lowes two years ago and I have had nothing but problems after 8 monthes the transmission torn up for some reason
I was unable to go repaired through lowes so I paid 470.00 to get mower repaired and with in the last month the deck broke loose from one of it's supports {brackets} and two weeks ago one of the plastic belt pulleys melted of the spindle so now the belt want in gage. this mover has only been used in my yard with is less than an acre I think is poor craftsmanship and this should not have happen and has helped me decide not every purchase another troybuilt product and to advise everyone I come in contact with to do the same because the products are not backed up with solid warranty and you will have to fix the mower ect. yourself.


Red Dave    Posted 02-24-2004 at 07:30:03       [Reply]  [No Email]
MTD has owned Cub Cadet since about 1980. Not sure when they bought Troy-Built and the others.


bob ny    Posted 02-24-2004 at 06:54:09       [Reply]  [No Email]
i have had a troy-built tiller for 15 yrs the only replacement parts were the tines and as the years pass the tines wear out faster. so i guess ther goes another good piece of equipment down the tubes


Alias    Posted 02-24-2004 at 07:13:50       [Reply]  [No Email]
Occassionaly, I run across those hardened tines on ebay. Also, there's a place here in Maryland that sells them. But, be prepared to pay a premium price. The place can be found on the www @ Bob's Welding.

The main difference in the hardened tines is that the manufacturer has run a weld bead on the back side of the sharpened edge.

I think the new T-B Horse Tillers are unchanged from the earlier ones with the exception that they no longer give you a choice of engines. The one I have has a Kohler Magnum 8HP which I think is far superior to the B&S........gfp


Jerry Brastad    Posted 02-24-2004 at 18:19:39       [Reply]  [Send Email]
This is a reply to alais. That weld bead on the bach of the sharpened edge is probally something like stoody 35. Stoody 35 is the next thing to tungston carbide. On a loader bucket or the edge of a hoe bucket you will see x's made of weld beads, could be Stoody 35 or some other abrasive resistant electrode.


deadcarp    Posted 02-24-2004 at 08:16:53       [Reply]  [No Email]
if you wanted longer-lasting tines you could probably harden them by heating the sharpened part, then quenching it in used oil. Might make it more brittle and harder to sharpen (and slower to dull), but most steels are oil-hardening anyway. (don't use water, they can crack & get brittle from cooling too fast) even if you just played a torch along the edge awhile and quenched it, you'd improve the thing. We used to make all kinds of knives and swords from heating and beating old tines/shares/blades. once in awhile i resharpen old overheated drill bits and re-temper them that way. :)

wanna soften aluminum? It will anneal by laying on a layer of torch carbon, then you heat it just til the carbon starts burning off and quench both sides with wet rags. You can then add louvers or whatever kinda bumps/dents you want. :)




Dieselrider    Posted 02-24-2004 at 17:24:29       [Reply]  [No Email]
Dc, Not all steel can be hardened. There are many different steels and ways to harden them. Some can be water hard, some air hard, still others oil hardened. After hardening they should be tempered by heating to the proper temp. for the particular type of steel and whatever hardness you are trying to obtain and then cooled again. For best results they should be tempered twice to really stabilize the steel. You can "case" harden even mild steel if you have access to some casenite. Each steel is very different and if you do not heat a particular steel to the required temperature for the required time , depending on it's thickness, before colling it may not get hard at all.


Lazy Al    Posted 02-24-2004 at 11:00:58       [Reply]  [No Email]
DC Did you see my post in that pond water to the barn one on your thoughts on getting drinking water ?
Seems like I seen that in mother earth news mag
a long time ago .
Al


Michael M    Posted 02-24-2004 at 08:44:46       [Reply]  [No Email]
Man, you beat me to it. I was going to suggest hardening them too. You ought to add that post to the How To section of this site. I too once in a while make knives, usually out of old files and other pieces of tool steel. Soften 'em first, then shape em, then re-harden. So far, so good. My Brunco wood furnace makes a nice forge in the dead of winter.


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