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Country Discussion Topics
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Installing field fence
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Bill in TN    Posted 03-19-2004 at 06:35:42       [Reply]  [No Email]
I've spent the last 6 weeks cleaning up fence rows, taking down wire, and burning brush. I'm headed this weekend to TSC to buy Red Brand 47" field fence and post.
I'd like any advise on how far to space the post, cross bracing, stretching, how far to space the cross braces, how many metal posts between wooden post etc.
Also, is Red Brand still a good choice? Price at TSC is 33% lower than at the co-op, who offers I believe Bennett? $95 per roll for Red Brand vs $132 for co-op. Co-op guy said their brand has more zinc. Wire gauge is the same.
The terrain is hilly, and I'd like to get it in as close to the ground with as few gaps as possible along the ground. Any advise appreciated.


Jim in michigan    Posted 03-19-2004 at 16:55:56       [Reply]  [Send Email]
I bought my 47 inch woven wire fence from Menards,,cost 60 bucks for 330 foot ,,, was way cheaper then anyone else and is really good wire..we stretched it using our truck and a come along,, made a piece out of 2 chunks of angle iron,, cut them a lil longer then the wire is high and made some bolt holes in them,, put the wire between the angle iron and bolted the pieces together sandwiching the wire in between them,,,then used the comealong hooked to the truck to pull it.. backed the truck up until wire was getting tight then used the comealong to stretch it,, it worked great and the fence is elephant strong...Jim


ret    Posted 03-19-2004 at 13:37:26       [Reply]  [No Email]
in the TSC master catalog there is a section on fencing, tells all about spacing and posts and wire and amounts
REt


jf    Posted 03-19-2004 at 09:58:29       [Reply]  [No Email]
some red brand fence(TSC) is coated with less zinc and the production process is less quality control, hence the lower price. Also check the guage or the wire and placement of staves. Not that I am knocking it-I have used it and will in the future. I place a wood post every 25-30 feet with a t-post every 8-10. The key is a tight stretch, firm end post and the bracing system. I would advise a 100 foot stretch(RULE OF THUMB). Cross bracing every roll in the middle is a good idea. Ideally depends on what you are turning and how hard you want to work.


EngineerJoyce    Posted 03-19-2004 at 08:20:43       [Reply]  [Send Email]
The easiest thing I can tell you about post spacing, etc. is to visit your local Conservation District / Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) Office. Check the local phone book or the web at www.nrcs.usda.gov. Their technical assistance is free. They have a standard for installing fence, and probably a sketch to show you how for each type of fence used locally.
You will need brace assemblies at every change in alignment or change in grade over 15 degrees. If you plan to nail to trees, watch out for gum trees or similar: they eat fence wire. You're better off nailing a treated board to the tree, then the fence to the board.
No matter the type of fence, proper stretching is a must, otherwise it will sag.
Common Practice in KY: corner and brace posts 8" spaced 8'. Line posts 4", spaced 24' with 2 t-posts between for 8' final spacing. Put at least one barbed wire on top to discourage "over-reaching" and riding the fence down by cattle.

Fencing isn't an easy job. Around here there are several fencing contractors because so few people know how or have time or want to do it anymore. Have fun.


JF    Posted 03-19-2004 at 09:59:36       [Reply]  [No Email]
I GUESS I WAS A FENCING CONTRACTOR HUH!!!!


EngineerJoyce    Posted 03-19-2004 at 11:09:22       [Reply]  [Send Email]
You bet, Big Boy!
Mine!
:-)


screaminghollow    Posted 03-19-2004 at 07:51:37       [Reply]  [No Email]
We have put up both field fence and more recently, high tensile woven wire fence. Here, the price is virtually the same. I'd go with the high tensile woven. It does help to have a stretcher, to pull the stuff tight. (In a pinch I've used a vise grip and come along) for regular field fence posts should be about every 10 feet. for the high tensile woven, you can go to every 15 feet, maybe 20 depending on terrain. Our local telephone company allows folks to pick up pieces of telephone poles busted off by drunks etc. They are usually cut in 9 to 11 foot pieces. I use these for corner and gate posts. Before setting them in the ground, I coat the bottoms with roof coating. Once set and cut to size, I also coat the tops with roof coating, to prevent moisture from laying in and rotting the tops. depending on your soil, you might not need corner bracing, but most likely you will. You can put three posts at each corner and brace with PT 4x4's as cross pieces. Use high tensile wire and turn buckles to crank them tight. Most places/companies that sell high tensile have instructional brochures for bracing etc. Depending on what they are raising, there's a few folks around here that are using cattle panels to fence small pastures. especially for goats. You would only need a post every 16 feet and there's no need to brace corners. Till you figure posts, etc, cattle panels will run about $1.00 per foot to fence an area. field fence with posts every ten feet will be about 50 cents per foot depending on corners and bracing. High tensile woven would run a little more than field fence, because it requires much heftier corner bracing, which in turn increases cost and labor. We keep our billy goat and his whether companion in a 48 x 96 pen. It was just so much easier to make the pen with cattle panels, and it is relatively easy to move, which we do every spring to clean out more old fence row and scrub. The 25 nannies and their babies are kept in the larger pasture where the woven high tensile is.


Mac/MS    Posted 03-19-2004 at 07:34:55       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Co-op here red brand 47" X 330' was $101.60 tax included.


Bkeepr    Posted 03-19-2004 at 07:26:41       [Reply]  [No Email]
Hilly land is tough--that's what I've got. You need to space line posts much closer than on flat land; I probably average 10' on mine, some are closer some a little farther.

I'd suggest you get a book on it: TSC has a couple of smaller paperbacks that are pretty good, there's a million tips and hints with pictures. One tip may apply on any stretch of land, which is why I suggest getting the book. There is no "one size fits all" solution.

I use wooden corner posts, heavy t-posts for line posts, and add wooden line posts in runs where there is a lot of up and down cross-ways to the fence. If you have a gully, sometimes you can hang strips of fence material below the normal run to fill the gap.

I bought whatever brand was sold at Central Tractor and installed several miles about 5 years ago, most hasn't even rusted yet...just taken a dull gray. Some of the fencing on my farm is several decades old, it is rusty but still strong.

good luck,
Tom A


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