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Country Discussion Topics
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Homelite chainsaw oiler
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loneranchman    Posted 02-21-2002 at 17:10:01       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Still wondering about the oiler on my CS-40. I have used it quite a bit turned both ways, the chain is slightly wet every time I look, but it seems to use about the same amount of oil per amount of gas, both the gas and the oil seem to run out close to the same time, no matter which way I adjust it. I was wondering which way is supposed to turn it up or down, clockwise or counter. It doesn't put out as much oil as any of my older saws did.

Linda Schwartz    Posted 05-10-2009 at 14:17:26       [Reply]  [Send Email]
what side does the oiler orfis go on. Does it control the oil flow or the impulse line side?

Andy in TN    Posted 12-18-2003 at 17:01:12       [Reply]  [Send Email]
I have had the Homelite CS40 for about 5 years, not made anymore. John Deere bought out Homelite and started producing Wal-Mart saws. I think the modern equivalent carries John Deere brand and green color with same CS 40 model number. The Homelite is a pretty decent saw for the money, less than $200 from Harbor Freight when I bought it but not like old Homelites, 330 or 360 were fine old saws.

To increase chain oil, turn screw CLOCKWISE. This is per the manual, which I have in hand. Mine oils the heck out of the 20" bar.

loneranchman    Posted 02-21-2002 at 20:33:01       [Reply]  [Send Email]
The CS-40 is a 40cc (I think)engine that I am told is similar to a 250 Homelite, it has a 20" bar. It is approximately 3 or so years old. I would kind of like to know. I am using the thing to clear cedars off of a quarter (tree diameter from 2 up to several inches). I would like to turn the oiler up, I don't care about filling it more often than the fuel. Like I said changing the flow adjusting screw doesn't really seem to make any difference, but I'd like to know which way is supposed to increase flow (can't find manual). Cedars are hard on saws, I am cutting above ground best as possible and beating the stumps the rest of the way with an axe. I took my chains in to be sharpened once and before I said anything he said "So you're cutting cedars". A shear to fit on my tractor to do the same thing that is big enough costs more than $5000 and I would pay someone else about that to do it for me (lots of trees). Anyway I am dumping extra oil on the chain from a jug between trees, otherwise it doesn't act like it's getting enough oil. I keep my chains sharp and in good condition. My old saws had either flow rate on the pushbutton oiler or manual, they would have oil running off of the bar, this one won't. I am getting a new bar/chains/sprocket again soon. Probably get a Stihl when it dies.

Pat    Posted 02-21-2002 at 19:41:09       [Reply]  [No Email]
I agree with the rest , I have 2 330's and they both are the same way run out of gas and there is still a little oil left in the tank refill both at the same time,,,, found out the hard way a while ago that these saws dont like used oil in the oil fill, clogs the ports ,,

Chris Young    Posted 05-31-2002 at 22:39:50       [Reply]  [Send Email]
So I have a Homelite 330, and the primary spark wire is rubbed through and shorts the spark, where can I get a new magneto, or is it even worth doing?

Also, just how big is the engine on this thing?

Thanks in advance!

PCC-AL    Posted 02-21-2002 at 17:36:40       [Reply]  [No Email]
I'm not familar with the CS-40. Is this a fairly new saw?? (last 10 years)
I once liked and lived Homelite until a few years back my friend and Homelite dealer stopped selling Homelite saws. I needed a new saw and he was selling Stihl. When I asked why, he told me that Homelite was now making saws to sell (like through Walmart) rather than quality machines. I bought a Stihl and love it.
Back to your question. My Homelites (old models) nearly always used a tank of oil to a tank of gas-mix. I thought that they designed them this way intentionally so that you filled both tanks at the same time. Anyway, if your bar is fairly wet (oily), you should be in good shape. Good luck.

Hogman    Posted 02-21-2002 at 17:52:32       [Reply]  [No Email]
I have and have owned 7 chainsaws,IMHO You should have just a" wee tad" of oil left when it runs out of fuel. That way it does not run dry on oil,ever.And as Pcc-Al says most are set up to do that. However, I have a sachs that can go from a drip to a gusher depending on the setting. BEST saw I own!

PCC-AL    Posted 02-21-2002 at 17:59:38       [Reply]  [No Email]
Hi Hog,
I remember your post on chainsaws from a question before. I recognized that you knew what you were talking about.
On this reply, I don't know what "sachs" is. Is this a brand of saw?? If it is better than my Sthil, I want one. Let me know. Thanks.

Hogman    Posted 02-21-2002 at 18:33:56       [Reply]  [No Email]
Sachs/Dormer Al,made in Germany. I think They just go by SACHS now days. Mine is a 117 which is the longest running production of any saw according to the big time saw men in Springfield. It's a case of "don't fool around with perfection".
It's a little heavy,not for overhead cuttin for sure but on tha flat tis great. Cranks up 6 HP and when it starts it sets there'n sounds like a engine stead of a bumble bee,sorta throbs,sounds like power and is....
By tha Bye, I just bought a Husky,$300 worth of flimsy plastic but it cuts right good and is light enough for workin up a tree without killin Yourself.

Book says"DO NOT pull start rope all the way out as damage may result. I cranked that stupid thing till My arm liked ta fell off. Never did even cough. Took it back,saw salesman flopped it down on tha floor ,tried ta jerk tha rope out by tha roots and tha thing took off like a stripped ----d ape. I says Ya ain't s'posed ta do that". He says "only if ya don't intend ta start it".

Tha Sachs is 20" bar. It mostly starts tha first pull but Ya gotta hold it down....

Butch in Ks    Posted 02-24-2002 at 15:58:24       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Get the stickies bar oil you can find then get an oil supplemt called IXL quite costly but will make you a believer real quick

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