Posted 08-22-2004 at 16:50:23
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This is a deep subject, so bewarned I may get off track.
Have you tested your pressure gauge? Your description has pressures all over the place. Unless you adjusted the presure switch, just removing it and replacing it, after installing the new pressure switch, should not change it's operating characteristics...... Unless it is faulty. Have you bench tested your pressure switches and gauge?
When you close the outflow isolation valve, the one that isolates all systems outside of the pump house, are the symptons the same? If it acts normal with the outlet shut you could have a underground leaker.
"When I turned on a faucet it would bleed the system to zero and then I would have to re-pressurize the tank and switch the breaker on/off to get it to fill to 30 again and then repeat the above"
Do you have a bladder tank?
That is a storage tank with an bladder that contains the water and you add air to the space above it, with a tire air-chuck.
If not, some tanks have a self-priming system that adds a little air everytime the pump kicks on. There is a valve a few feet below the well cap that allows this to happen. If it does not seal when the pump kicks on you could be recirculating water back to the well, thus not able to build sufficent pressure to to cycle properly.
Pull the cover off of your well casing, and listen while the pump is running.
Shine a flashlight down the hole, you'll see a fitting going out the side of your well casing a couple of feet down (it varies in N.Dakota where it gets really cold it might be eight feet down the level they bury their water pipes. In Millburn, New Jersey it might be three feet)the air valve would be there if you have that type of system.
Then again it could be your pump is old and tired, not pumping efficently.
Why are you having to turn the breaker on/off, it sounds as if you're tripping the breaker, not getting the trip indication.
If this does help post back with your findings. There are a few otherthings we could have a look at.