Posted 02-22-2001 at 17:28:20
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Zoomer- It was about 15 years ago when I last did the following, so I'm telling from an old memory.
Best thing you can do as to getting an idea about how to plumb the system is to go snoop out a store that sells the modern pressure tanks. Just look one over. Notice it is rounded on the bottom, with the water in/out fitting on the botton. Notice it has the support legs on the same end as the in/out fitting. Notice teh support legs provide ample space for piping to be installed under the tank and off the floor. Notice it has a tire inflator valve on the top.
Next, politely have a store clerk let you read the installer instruction sheet for one of 'em. The only difference is in size and cost. The technical principles involved are the same.
What you can't see, unless you peek into the in/out bung hole, is a heavy plastic, or rubber, or ???, bladder blocking the hole. Above the bladder the chamber is pressurized by air. The bladder keeps the air from dissolving into the water, requiring frequent replenishments of the air over the water.
It is very important to adjust the bladder inflation pressure to what the instructions say. The air pressure is adjusted with the pump off, no pressure in the system, and the tank empty of water- this is a critical condition.
The pump control pressure switch also must be adjusted as part of a unified system set up activity. Again, you gotta follow the directions to the letter! That means having an accurate water pressure guage and an accurate tire pressure guage.
Two important features of the system- Everything that goes into the tank, water & "stuff", gets sent back out and nothing accumulates in the tank. Modern tanks are coated and don't form internal corrosion. If all piping and fittings in the system are plastic you'll have little to no corrosion problems.
A "plan B" is to just install the appropriate water filter on the line going out to your sprinklers and not let all the above cause you un-necessary work.
Hope that helps, IHank