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About to stretch some high tensile fence. Questions.
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Mike in Va.    Posted 04-18-2002 at 11:07:13       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Hello Friends,
Been a long time coming but am just about to order fencing and close in some pasture. Never put up this high tensile fencing before. Set the corners a deep as I could get old Mr. Danuser to go. Got the corners in concrete, and the gate posts too. Put the line posts at 50' intervals on the long runs. Got some trees I'll need to tie to when I head downhill and around the pond. Several questions have been eatin at me. Since none of my neighbors run cattle anymore (retired, or just doing beans & corn) nobody local has run this high tensile before.

At the risk of sounding foolish-

#1 Can you 'walk-out' most of the slack before you need to pull with the come-along?

#2 Are 2 crimp sleeves enough to use when you splice 2 pieces together?

#3 Do you take a risk of eventually shorting out the fence using metal 'T' posts with those plastic insulators built for 'T' posts?

#4 Do you need to put the underground jumper wire in a conduit when you pass under a gate?

I'll thank you in advance for your help.
I'm a bit skittish on this one. All the fencing I've ever fooled with is barb wire.

Sure am hoping that DJ won't answer my questions neither as she said she thinks farmers all got their head in the sand and I'm feelin a bit thata way 'bout this here fence...


Alvin-Va    Posted 04-18-2002 at 20:10:19       [Reply]  [No Email]
Mike,looks like everyone pretty much covered the fence questions,just make sure you pay attention to the one about bracing the corners really good.
Glad you got the holes down now,looks like a dry spell coming,at least here.Radar looked like ya'll might have got a little rain yestiddy.
Now,about this barrel thing,for Gods sake man,keep selling it in gallon jugs,iffn you go big time wholesale the whole dang area is gonna be overun with Feds.Keep it small and simple,worked for our Pappys and Grandpappys,it'l work for us.Sides that,I think you jus braggin,yo operation ain't that big.
Last subject,the old tractor and engine show at Stonewall.You ever go?Think I heard rhudson mention it on another board,been fixin to ask him if he planned to attend,maybe he will hear this.Think it's gonna be May 18-19,right in the middle of hay season but what the heck it usually rains during the event anyway.
Good luck on the fence.


rhudson    Posted 04-19-2002 at 08:12:28       [Reply]  [Send Email]
HI Alvin,
Yes sir i hope to go to the show this year. besides i don't think we will have any hay without rain in the next two weeks.

Alvin, i had an uncle that got killed hauling that stuff. had another uncle that died drinking that stuff. had another uncle that was a highway patrolman (and yes he was an honest one). at one time they all lived on the same farm. wonder how that worked?

Would enjoy meeting both of you if you make it to the show.


Sned    Posted 04-18-2002 at 16:49:38       [Reply]  [No Email]
Hi Mike,
I just built high tensil around my whole place a couple years ago and have had no problems with it.

The crimps work fine and they are cheaper than a lot of options ( you don't even have to crimp them. Just put em on the wire-runaround the post or splice and back through then bend the wire backwards, it can't get out. If the need arises that you have to take it apart bend the wire back and take it back out. PS, two crimps are better if you splice.

When I run under the gates I put UF wire into some old water line as a rock shield, buried about one shovel depth.

Can't comment on the insulaters, I used wood posts and plastic insulators, long ones at the corner posts.

I made a deal to lay on my carry-all for the wire to un-roll on, very simple to make. I 'll take a picture of it and send it to ya if'n ya like.

Good luck!





rhudson    Posted 04-18-2002 at 14:47:27       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Hi Mike.

if you use metal post, and deer run through and break the insulators (you know thats going to happen) and if the wire comes to rest against the post, its going to short out.

there are some fairly cheap short indicators (flashes a small red light if fence voltage drops around 3000) for around $16.00. i got a few so i can see them from the house or when i drive out or in from work. well worth it when you have cows against US 501.

carefull on taking up tension on loose wire, if it loops and you pull a kink in it, it will break. i tie off at one end and pull to the other, then walk back to check for kinks before taking up slack.

conductor wire has to be in an insulating tube in ground, going up the post and turned down so that rain water drains down the short end, not into the underground tube. i think over head is better but it would be a bear to run and maintain. some of my under ground runs are showing signs of slight shorts or leaks to ground.

i have always used square knots and bolts for connecting, but recently purchased a crimper.
TSC in south boston has video tapes that they will lend out that demistrate their brands methods. i noticed that the austrailian manufactor (galighor?) differs on some details.

did you get the plastic barrels you were asking about a few days ago? i asked this yesterday but got skillited down on the CT site.


Mike, i see the reply on barrels    Posted 04-18-2002 at 15:13:08       [Reply]  [No Email]
I thought it was in a tread that got skillited, i think i have barrels, don't know if i have bungs. is their anywhere in brookneal i could drop them off?


Warren    Posted 04-18-2002 at 14:30:05       [Reply]  [No Email]
Mike,

I have had a high tensile fence for about 10 years now and love it, but I have learned along the way about how to do things a little better. The following suggestions are things I have learned over the years.
1. Get yourself (or build) a "jenny" This is a lazy susan type of device to hold the spool of high tensile fence to allow you to pull it off the spool smoothly. Trust me, you don't want to cut the bands on the spool of wire without something around it - man what a mess!
2. Get "Premier Fencing" catalog. They have a lot of good products and they are excellent to deal with over the phone. The catalog provides a lot of helpful hints.
3. Get good high tensile insulators if you are going to charge the fence. Regular insulators will not take the vertical strain of the wire under tension - they will break when it is really cold or really hot.
4. A great thing to get from Premier is their "Twist Ties". These things are about 12-18" long and double wire twisted in a corkscrew like fashion. They are twisted around the ends of the wire to attach two wires together or when wrapping around the end posts. This is what I use for connecting the ends, I no longer use the crimps. I have never had a failure of the twist ties, but the crimps have failed. The twist ties work just like the old "Chinese Handcuffs" we used to play with as kids - the harder you pull, the harder it grips.
5. Premier also sells a product called "Supa Tube" ( or something like that). This is an 18" long thick plastic tube that you fish the wire through when going around corner or end posts. This works much better than regular glass or plastic corner insulators. The Supa Tube in combination with the twist ties make for an excellent setup at the end post. I have found that occasionally I want to disconnect the wire from the post for whatever reason and I hate like heck to cut the wire and then splice it - this way, I release the tension with the wire strainer and then I just unwrap the twist tie and the wire is off. When I want to put it back up, I reconnect the twist tie and tighten the strainer.
6. Corner posts: BIG and DEEP with at least one cross brace and maybe a double set of cross braces. Believe me, the corner posts will eventually work their way out of the ground with the tremendous amount of tension.
7. Make sure the wire is galvanized - if so, it should last a long time.

I hope this was helpful.
Good luck.

Warren


Hogman--Hey Warren    Posted 04-19-2002 at 08:24:07       [Reply]  [No Email]
Where do You get Those fancy "premier"type items?Mostly tha ties as it's a pain in tha back forty ta keep cuttin and splicin. I rearrange paddocks often and it's hard on tha wire and worse on Me.....

TO ONE AND ALL,PLEASE,PLEASE READ AND HEED!!!!!!
Wear eye protection when working with this stuff! Last week it was brought home to Me in spades when a wild end whipped around and hit dead center in My left lens gouging out a hunk of that gaurnteed scratch proof material.

Now lastly I believe We tend to take Hi Tensil to mean Hi Tension,You can over tension which does the wire no good.
Speakin of corner posts tho, We were bleest with some 5+ inchs of rain and praise tha good Lord for His bounty but it sure created some problems with "T" post corners
And lastly again thankin Tha good one We spread 6 ton of fert Tuesday and finished up in a good sprinkle that turned into a slow .6 that night .

That was tha good stuff,I won't bore Ya-al with tha stuff this week that makes Ya wonder why tha samhill Ya keep doin this stuff We call farmin!


Warren    Posted 04-19-2002 at 14:29:42       [Reply]  [No Email]
Hogman,

Good point about the eye protection!

Trust me, you will love the twist ties!
You can contact Premier on the web @ http://www.premier1supplies.com/

or you can contact them by phone @ 1-800-282-6631


Hogman- Thank'Ye kind Sir    Posted 04-19-2002 at 16:33:32       [Reply]  [No Email]
,,


MikeH-Tx    Posted 04-18-2002 at 15:14:30       [Reply]  [No Email]
The jenny idea is another good one. I use a 3pt round bale lifter for that for fence wire rolls. Wire spools might work too, although I bet most won't fit over the "legs."


george s    Posted 04-18-2002 at 14:10:31       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Do yourself a favor and call Kencove- farm fence inc. 1-800-536 2683,or www. kencove.com, their free catalog gives good info on installation, and the guys there can answer any question you have.


Manitoba    Posted 04-18-2002 at 12:25:02       [Reply]  [No Email]
Like said I used a tractor also because of the distance. Once tight enough I used a ratchet style winder to bring the fence to the proper tension which is gauged by the two springs installed at each end. My fence is 4 strand and the 2nd and fourth being powered , while the other two are ground. As for splices.. I used 4 crimpers because they are cheap and I was worried about slipping. Hope this helps


MikeH-Tx    Posted 04-18-2002 at 12:10:24       [Reply]  [No Email]
I have no experience with electric fences, so will pass on that part, but one suggestion I can pass along is that it was easier for me to use a tractor at the ends of the runs to tie the comealong to, rather than tieing between the post and fence. This avoids the sequence of: over tighten, secure the end, loosen and remove comealong.


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