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Country Discussion Topics
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Well water to heat and cool
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Scott    Posted 03-02-2001 at 19:49:27       [Reply]  [No Email]
Looking into buying a acreage that has well water. They also use the well water to cool and heat with. Something about bring it out of the ground at 55 degrees and transfering it into coolent or heat. Could someone give me alittle knowledge on this so far all i know is that it is suppose to be very efficent they dont however resurculate it back they have it draning into the sewer/lagoon.

thanks
Scott


IaGuy    Posted 03-07-2001 at 17:42:29       [Reply]  [Send Email]
I had an ECONAR heat pump made in Minnesota put into the new house I am building in the country. Good idea...even tho the house is not finished with all the sheetrock and insulation and the temp kept around 50 degrees, the electric bills were like $25/ month. However:
1. Pump N Dump discharge line was not buried deep enough for this Iowa winter and the discharge water line quit, so furnace reverted to elec. coil backup, not so cheap.
2. Rural utility gave nice rebate and rates during winter months, using extra meter.
3. 175 foot well w/3/4 hp submersible easily handled furnace requirements, but the rust that prevails in our county plugs the filter. Will have to get a good filter system anyway, I don't want to shower in that stuff!
4. Plan to dump eventually into a pond. Now pipe exits to surface downhill and does not freeze up at the end. But it did up near the house where it needs more fill dirt.
5. Heat pumps won't quickly heat the house like a big ol roaring wood fire or a gasfired furnace.
6. So far I am pleased with the results, but there are a lot of "bells and whistles" to go wrong.
7. Seller won't warrant the pump unless a low temp switch is installed in case well can't keep up and it squeezes out heat from too little water, freezing compressor and damaging it. Also if the house is colder(like near freezing), it may also block compressor from running.
8. Better have at least one back up heater, like grids in furnace that automatically take over or a woodstove or standby generator.
9. I would do it again, it so "cool" to stick the thermometer in the inlet water line and see 55 deg and then stick it in the outlet water line and see 45 degrees! think of the energy it takes to heat water ten degrees at around 6 gallon a minute! Thats what you get outof a little water.
I also built on a total wood basement and using double wall construction so hope to afford the heat into the future. Thanks for listening.


Lew Van Vliet    Posted 03-02-2001 at 21:19:42       [Reply]  [Send Email]
go to google.com and type in geothermal furnace. You will get many responses. I am very pleased with my "water furnace" brand. I live in Wisconsin and it heats in winter and cools in summer. Each of the last three years it has cost me $450 less to heat and cools than the average of the previous seven years. This year it will run a bit more but I am projecting a cost savings of over $400. For a noncommercial source of information, check out Oklahoma State University.


Joseph A.Busa    Posted 03-04-2001 at 11:53:40       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Dear folks out there.I have been in the Ground Water Heat Pump Bis.scince 1966,you will get 3.5
K.W.for every K.W you buy.thats not bad.Yes you can dig a well,to pump water.We have a formual to
re deposit the water back in to the well.Beside this you can heat your hot water for no charge.
My customers are saying they are geting $4.20 out
of every dollar they are spending on electric.
They will never give up their units,I have one that I heat my plastic green house with in Ma.
02420.It has cost me about 30 cents per hour to
run in the past years. contact me if I can Help
Any body thanks,Joe Busa


AD    Posted 03-02-2001 at 19:56:06       [Reply]  [No Email]
I have saw several articles on this method of cooling and heating but for the life of me cannot think of the name it has but all the systems I read about recirculated the water and it is suppose to be cost efficent.


IHank    Posted 03-02-2001 at 21:27:26       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Scott and AD- The system is commonly known as a "heat pump". A number of system design variations exist, with new ones popping up all the time.

The physics involved is that all matter above absolute zero (-425 F approx) contains heat energy. By using materials with boiling points compatable with physics, refrigeration and heating systems can be constructed. R-12 or 22 freon, propane, anhydrous ammonia, and other coolant materials will work.

What happens is a compressor is used to cause the refrigerant gas to give up the heat and take on a liquid state in one heat exchanger coil. On the other side of the system the liquid is allowed to expand and take up heat, making things around it cold, and transporting the heat energy to the other coil for disposal.

An analogy is using a sponge to wipe up a water spill on the kitchen floor, then wringing it out in the sink.

By electric control of the valving to control the refrigerant the heat energy can be "pumped" outside in the summer and inside in the winter. Hence, the term "heat pump".

If you put the outdoor heat exchanger coil in a place that is relatively cool in summer and warm in winter, big system operating efficiences can be realized. The constant ground temperature in the fifties accomplishes this.

The out door heat exchanger coil can be submerged in well water, running water or whatever natural source is available, or lately, simply buried five or six feet down in the yard. Whatever, the earth acts like a giant heat energy flywheel, making things level out if it is utilized properly.

Ponder the efficiency matters, of a system dumping heat into 100 degree air in A/C mode, or trying to soak up some heat from 10 degree air in heat mode...

Hope this helps, IHank


dennis    Posted 12-09-2003 at 13:36:53       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Fresno,Ca. Floor here like most of the houses in Fresno are always cold with the heat at the celling. My search for a better system that heats and cools with air or water circulated through pipes or ducks laid on the floor. Have you any knowledge about such a system or other sites that do research about such systems? Our temp. are about 32 low and 110 high.
Thanks Dennis


Wayne    Posted 03-02-2001 at 20:30:04       [Reply]  [Send Email]
I am planning to use a spring-fed pond for the same purpose. It is called geothermal. I will be going the low cost route..running black plastic pipe in a grid on the bottom of the pond, then circulating either water or a non-toxic antifreeze solution through the pipes via a hydronic heating pump into either a radiator (car or otherwise)with a fan behind to blow through and cool the air. Will have to have a trough under it to catch and carry away condensation. I live in an all solar electricity house, so can't use regular air conditioning or heat pumps as they are too energy consumptive. If you are interested, i have a few links to some commercial supplies for this type of thing. Wayne in Ky


Robert from W. Mi.    Posted 03-03-2001 at 20:19:59       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Hi,
I all so have spring fed ponds, and i did exactly what you are going to do. The problem here is, we have humidity, and makeing the air cold does nothing for this problem. I hate to have to run a dehumidifier all the time, i'd rather just put in central air.
What do you plan to do for this problem??
Robert


Steve Hansen    Posted 03-05-2001 at 06:14:44       [Reply]  [Send Email]
A geothermal heat pump works like a conventional air conditioner in the cooling mode. Water that condenses on the cooling unit is drained off. You do not need a seperate dehumidifier. I have a ground loop system made by Hydro-Temp in Pocahontas, Arkansas. They have a very informative site. Check it out.


Robert in W. Michigan    Posted 03-06-2001 at 07:40:16       [Reply]  [No Email]
Your answer makes sense, but Wayne was refering to pumping cold pond water through a radiator to cool the air in the house. Where i live, the air in the house is humid, and just makeing it colder doesn't take the humity out of the air. I'm wondering what Wayne will do to get the humity out?? I've all ready done what Wayne is talking about, and humity is a "real" problem. Am i missing something here??
Robert


Steve Hansen    Posted 03-06-2001 at 10:00:31       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Guess I read the original post wrong.

When I worked in Miami my office was in a building with a chilled water cooling system. Little fan blew interior air over a radiator with cold water. The radiators had a catch pan and drain. Even so, my stand alone dehumidifier would collect a gallon of water (or more) overnight.


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