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Country Discussion Topics
To add your comments to this topic, click on one of the 'Reply' links below.

STEVE ANDERSON
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Ron/PA    Posted 12-19-2004 at 08:34:29       [Reply]  [No Email]
Steve, I just saw your post further down the page. I clean and service oil burners as a part time business, and am in no way an expert, and I normally don't try to do telephone diagnosis, however in this case I doubt you'll come and punch me in the nose if I'm wrong. (Grin)
First of all NEVER assume that your nozzle is good. For the $2.25 replace it. I find about 1 in 50 new ones are faulty from the factory. What did your filter look like when you replaced it? Any water in the canister? Was it covered with black tar?
Any time I find a customer hit the reset button twice I light a paper towel and push it in the inspection hole to burn off the excess fuel you pumped in there. To setting your ignitors is as, or more important than having a clean nozzle.
I'm going to lean very heavy towards suspecting your transformer. You can do a crude check on this by hitting the reset, and flipping it open. Strike an arc across the terminals with a screwdriver (INSULATED!) and seeing how far you can drag that arc. It should carry nearly from post to post.
Setting the ignitors can be difficult, depending on the make of your burner, they sell or give away guages to set them.
If it were me, I'd replace the nozzle, try it, if it gives you more problems, I'd lean towards a new transformer.
Good luck, let us know how you make out, or if I can be of any help. (no I ain't makin a house call. LOL
Ron


JB    Posted 12-19-2004 at 17:27:25       [Reply]  [Send Email]
On some burner guns the directions for setting the electrode gap, the distance the electrodes should be in front of the nozzel, and the distance above center of nozzel can be found on the gun somewhere. If it is not there try getting one from the burner gun manufacture. Maybe even on the internet. I had one where the transformer went out also.


midway    Posted 12-19-2004 at 13:47:02       [Reply]  [No Email]
Ron, while your handing out "free" info, what do you think of this.... oil boiler, originally had connections for heating hot water for hot water faucets also besides the steam radiators. Now disconnected pipes for hot water faucet use but still use for steam radiators. Oil man fixes boiler so that it stays at 120* degrees, even in the summer time. Says it will keep the boiler from cracking. I think it keeps the oil company in money delivering oil in the summertime. What are your thoughts on this ????


midway    Posted 12-19-2004 at 17:00:24       [Reply]  [No Email]
a little correction...... In the winter time it goes above the 120 *degrees to produce steam, but he has it set to never go below 120* even in the summertime. Says it will keep the chamber from cracking.


TB    Posted 12-19-2004 at 17:36:20       [Reply]  [No Email]
Many cast iron boilers are made up of sections as long as thay are hot no problem. Meny times when thay cool down the sections will contract ans shrink making the seems crack or open up and start leeking and loose water causing it to corrode inside. This makes it harder to get the water level back up and the tempiture up without cracking it. usually once the cast iron is back up to temp thay stop leeking. If you get the cast hot and then put the water to it cast iron will shatter. It is just a hole lot less headach's just to keep some heat in them year around


midway    Posted 12-20-2004 at 07:29:14       [Reply]  [No Email]
OK, Thanks, understand now. Just didn't know which cost more, high price oil all summer or replacing burner box.


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