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Shallow well water pressure
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Matt    Posted 07-14-2002 at 13:37:42       [Reply]  [Send Email]
I have a shallow well with w 1.5hp submersible pump which I have just replaced. The pump has been turning on and off very frquently which is what I believe led to its demise.

I have a WELL MATE WD6 Tank which I think has a "ruptured bladder?" because I cannot maintain pressure very long and the pressure I do have isnt very good. I watch the pressure gauge move when water is used and the pump seems to do its job by when the pressure reaches 30psi then the pump brings it up to 50psi but it happens too often.
I heard there are options like holding tanks that hold more water at a descent pressure, but I cant find much info on these. There are no Well specialists in my immediate area and the one that is wont response to my messages I have left for him. I told him I would be willing to pay just for him to come out and tell me what I need to do. Can someone please help steer me in the right direction before I have to dump another $300 on a new pump when this one goes?

The Pressure switch is a 30/50 and was replaced recently as well.

any help would be appreciated.

Hal/WA    Posted 07-15-2002 at 14:07:35       [Reply]  [No Email]
I would agree that your bladder tank has gone bad, which causes the fast cycling problem. Some tanks have replacable bladders, but once they have ruptured, there is a problem with moisture and rust inside the tank. And the replacement bladders are not cheap. When mine went bad, it was reccommended to me that I replace the whole tank with a higher quality tank rather than trying to fix the old one. It has worked fine since then.

1.5 horsepower sounds like a lot of pump for a shallow well. Are you sure that you have sufficient flow into the well to support that much outflow? I would do a flow test on the system with as much flow going through it as possible for 8 hours. If you can get the system to hold that volume for 8 hours, you have a very impressive shallow well! It is important that you pay attention to the flow, because a pump that is running without water may be badly damaged.

The suggestion about checking the pitless adapter is a good one. But you should be able to find out if you have a leak by just seeing if the pump cycles with everything off. If the system holds pressure over time, it is unlikely that you have a leak.

Crud in screens and filters would suggest junk in your system. It also can be coating sloughing off the inside of galvanized pipe. It also can be related to the ruined bladder tank.

You might find out if 30-50 is the proper pressure range for your pump. The submersible pumps I have worked with used 40-60 pounds. This would give you higher pressure in your system, if it is designed to work that high. It is not hard to change a pressure switch and they cost about the same for the different ranges.

Good luck. At least your pump problems are not happening in the coldest part of winter like mine always seem to.

Ray    Posted 07-15-2002 at 10:13:28       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Try this web site. Click on pump chat and ask the question and they will respond back.

realfarmer    Posted 07-14-2002 at 23:02:31       [Reply]  [No Email]
If you have a bladder tank and it goes bad, you have a system equivalent to what we had before bladder tanks! Just drain the tank and restart the pump. When the pump cycles too frequently, the system is waterlogged, ie, no air in the system. The cushion of air in the tank is what pushes the water through your system, just like a bladder tank does. The bladder provides the cushion, or air space, above the water in the tank. Before bladder tanks, we used a device to automatically provide air to the system. It mounted on the tank, and had a small hose going to the tank. Bladder tanks just replaced that system.

Pitch    Posted 07-14-2002 at 18:12:55       [Reply]  [No Email]
I had a wellmate and the bladder went on it replaced the bladder and it went again I then replaced the tank with an extroll and have had no problems. They are not hard to install take a good look at your old installation and then a good look at the new tank the most you will probably need is a few pipe nipples and such to adjust lengths and such not. Before you shut down and disconnect your system draw 15 or twenty gallons of water in case you lose prime in the pump. read your directions and go for it.

Bob /Ont.    Posted 07-14-2002 at 13:47:25       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Matt,you likely need a new bladder in the tank. You deffinatly don't have a head of air over the water, that is what lets the pump stay off longer as you use the water. It's hard to say wether you should replace just the bladder or the whole tank.
Later Bob

Matt    Posted 07-14-2002 at 13:52:04       [Reply]  [No Email]
Thanks Bob, for your quick response. DO you know of anyplace I could go to on the web that would tell me how to nstall a new tank? I'm sure that the new tanks come with some kind of instruction but I'd like to know what I'm getting into before I buy one.

Ron/Pa    Posted 07-14-2002 at 14:40:25       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Matt, one of the most common brands of tanks, is
(X-TROL) and these are very simple to install. They come pre-charged with air, and it is a simple in, out hook up.
One way to check the bladder in your old tank is to completely drain it, then check the pressure with an air gauge.
If you have a question on adaptation, just remove the old one, and take it along to your plumbing outlet and show it to them, and they should set you up with exactly what you need.
Good luck,

yvette    Posted 06-09-2005 at 22:27:01       [Reply]  [Send Email]
what presure should the gauge read at. our pipes are making alot ofnoise and the water presure is very low. When i was a kid we use to drain the pump but now it has a valve to release air. What should the presure be at?? help!!

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