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Country Discussion Topics
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Sewage Pump and Tank Question
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Spence    Posted 12-14-2002 at 14:49:06       [Reply]  [No Email]
I'm building a laundryroom in the basement
and will have a toilet down there too. I bought a sewage pump, Diamond WPA50 1/2hp.

I just realized I didn't factor in water
temperature. The instructions says that the pump
will cut off if the temp goes higher than 105deg F. Well, my hot water tank is set to 170-185, so
the pump will definitly cut off when the washer drains. Now I figure if it cuts out it had better cut back in again before the next tub emptying
or the sewage tank will overflow. Most likely it
won't cool off that fast in a closed in enclosure.

The water will lose some heat
as it goes down the ABS drain, and also when it
mixes with the toilet effluent, but it still
will be higher than 104deg.

Then I thought about piping the wash machine directly to the drain which is 7.5ft above the basement floor. The thing is when the water gets
to the 7ft head, there will not be enough flow to
carry away the solids as the small pump(Kenmore, plastic pump) won't be able to handle that height, bringing back to the pump all the hair and lint.

Besides I may one day make a full bathroom
and water from the bathtub will present the same

Anyone have the same setup with no problems?
Does anyone know the proper submersible pump to use?

Thanks for the help.

LAzy Al    Posted 12-15-2002 at 08:04:43       [Reply]  [No Email]
Spence Go to
It has alot on water heaters, Maybe not what
you need or want to know But theres alot of
info on it One thing I was interested in was
bacteria in your hot water tank

Larry    Posted 12-14-2002 at 17:38:59       [Reply]  [Send Email]

I have to agree with Lazy Al. I think the maximum sugested water temp should only be 130. I think my water heater setting will only go up to 140. If your hot water is that hot(170-185) you run the risk of getting scalded.

DeadCarp    Posted 12-14-2002 at 17:49:55       [Reply]  [No Email]
Oue health department wanders into a motel room every year or so, un-annnounced, and sticks a thermometer into the running hot water - it better NOT get over 130 degrees f or you get no license next year!

Lazy Al    Posted 12-14-2002 at 16:29:17       [Reply]  [No Email]
I have my hot water set at 135 Max . Why do you have yours set so hot ? or is it just me
Your dish washer only takes it up to 180 deg
Seem like you could get burnt real easy .
Any one else keep their hot water that hot

glen sw wi    Posted 12-14-2002 at 15:23:52       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Why not put in a sump pump setup to hold the wash water and the shower in the future. With this setup you could easily get at the pump. Don't know if there is a high temp cutout on a sump pump, but with the tank in the floor the water should cool off quite quickly. Sump pumps aren't too expensive and the whole unit can be removed easily, no plumbing involved.

Spence    Posted 12-14-2002 at 16:59:03       [Reply]  [No Email]
Godd dea. Sump pumps come in th pedestal type also. Not sure if I can get a long life of the impeller imersed constantly in hot water, but hey. at 50$ a pump every few years sounds ok.

Mike D. - did that once-    Posted 12-14-2002 at 18:17:20       [Reply]  [No Email]
Hello Spence,
Did you mention whether or not you are using a sealed crock? I built a house 10 years ago with a similar set up. The laundry and a downstairs bathroom drained into a sealed crock with a 3/4 hp. effulent pump made by Franklin. Never had a problem. Don't go pedestal if you want to add a bathroom later. By national building code the crock has to be sealed and have an independant vent.

Spence    Posted 12-14-2002 at 18:33:46       [Reply]  [No Email]
Yes, it drains into a black heavy vinyl tank
with a sealed lid and it has three holes in the top, air vent electrical wire and pump exit pipe.

The whole thing goes in the ground after you break up the 4in slab and gravel. You gotta dig about 2 feet below that.

Franklin? can you get me make and model?


Mike D.    Posted 12-15-2002 at 06:53:08       [Reply]  [No Email]
Heelo again Spence,
Wish I could get you the model number. Any good plumbing supply will have the pump that
is currantly used. My guess is that they'll have them in stock too. When I built the house I mentioned the county had a code of its own that required an alarm to be installed also. That way if the pump fails you won't back flood the system with sewage. I had a customer years ago that had sewage back up in their basement bathtub because their effulent pump took a dump of its own.
I have never been a fan of the mechanical ejection of effluent. Sh!t needs to run down hill... just like in the military.
I have a friend who also is a contractor who failed a house final because the lid on the sealed crock was installed upside down and the lipped flange was pointing up. He had to replumb the works to put it straight. Thats was some time ago. Now the lids don't have flanges on them, go figure. Tampons will destroy the pump. They jamb the impeller and the motor will burn out. We've had to change out a pump for a customer who had houseguests that flushed several into the crock.

On a retrofit like you have, if you cut the crete
with a masonry blade in a circular saw you will get a neater installation. You don't need to saw deeper that a 1/2". The kerf will be deep enough to ease the surface tension on the crete. When you break the hole open it should leave clean lines. We often criss-cross the square opening with two more sawcuts- forming an X. Whack the center of the X first and work your way outward.\
That way when you set the crock you can grout from the crock back to the existing crete and have a real nice looking job.

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