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Country Discussion Topics
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K1 vs K2
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Ludwig    Posted 02-01-2003 at 09:29:41       [Reply]  [No Email]
To keep my mind of our country's troubles I'll ask a question.

I've got a lamp at camp that looks similar to an Aladdin lamp, I'll try and get a picture next time I'm up there, but basically its an oil burning lamp. I think its got some sort of kerosene in it, definately not cheapo parafin lamp oil, because it doesn't freeze like that stuff does.
Now, at the gas stations near the camp I can get K1 which we've generally used in the Kerosun heaters, or K2, which I actually don't know what to do with, and supposedly won't work in the kerosun.
Can anybody enlighten me on the difference between K1 and K2?

Les...K2 is a mountain    Posted 02-01-2003 at 13:21:21       [Reply]  [No Email]

bill b va    Posted 02-01-2003 at 14:30:22       [Reply]  [No Email]

k 2 is a air base in korea ( or was ) don't remember a k 1 .

Les    Posted 02-01-2003 at 15:00:51       [Reply]  [No Email]
Actually, K1 is the radio call sign for the Plymouth District of the NH Electric Cooperative where I work. We got both of 'em covered now.

Salmoneye    Posted 02-01-2003 at 10:58:18       [Reply]  [Send Email]
I assume that when you say 'looks similar to an Aladdin lamp' you mean that it has a round wick?...Describe it and I may be able to ID it without a pic...Metal or glass?...Smooth font or pattern?

I found this stuff:

From Kerosuns' own F.A.Q. Page in relation to 'Portable' Heaters:

"Can I use red dye kerosene in my heater?

Yes, you can use dye kerosene, however we recommend using clear 1-K kerosene for assurance of fuel quality. If you use dye kerosene you should dry burn the wick more frequently (see owner's manual in regard to dry burning procedures.)"

'Red Dye Kerosene', from what my distributor tells me, is properly called 'Non-Taxable Diesel'...Least that is what is printed on my bill when I call them and order 'Kerosene'...The only difference is a couple of points of 'volatility'...Kero is a tad 'lighter' and will stay liquid to lower temps...Both will work in anything that recommends one specifically...Heck...I have had a couple of 'All Fuel' Primus back-pack stoves that would burn anything from heating oil to gasoline or naptha...Only thing was the thicker the stuff the longer it took to light...

The Link below might explain better...It refers to diesel engines, but IMHO applies across the board for all kero/diesel burners...

I hope this helps!

Ludwig - actually    Posted 02-01-2003 at 11:54:18       [Reply]  [No Email]
a second look at the Lehmans website and my lamp looks much more like the "Coolidge Drape Lamp".
Its got a clear base and my grandmother says it belonged to her grandmother.

I also have a railroad lantern like on the Lehmans website. Mine came from the Bangor and Aroostock(sp) Railroad and has a B&A imprint on the top. I'll get a picture of it some time. It hung near the tracks by the farm and if somebody wanted to ride the trail you had to light the lantern and hang it 1/2 mile up the tracks from the stop so they'd know. At some point after passenger service stopped somebody stole the lantern. The story goes that my great Uncle found it in the woods and put it in the barn in case it was ever needed again. I don't have any idea how it got out to the camp, but thats where I found it last fall.
I'd like to use it some, just for around the camp, is there anything I should check on it before putting it back into service?

Salmoneye    Posted 02-01-2003 at 15:40:42       [Reply]  [Send Email]
For a glass lamp...Look it over good...make sure that there are no cracks or holes in the glass font that would allow it to leak...Tight cracks are ok...Remove the burner...Try Gently at first...Old kero will gum up the threads and the brass female threaded collar may be held on only with plaster of paris...If it is a lamp after 1919 it will have the collar actually moulded in the glass...These you can be a little more agressive with...If you have a plaster or 'pressed on' collar and the burner will not easily screw off...You can clean around the connection with alcohol and cloth...You may have to soak the head of the lamp and burner upside down in alcohol overnight...I find these days that I am getting lazy...I open a Zippo lighter, light it and stand it burning on the table in front of me...Then I rotate the lamp over the flame holding the joint nearest to the tip of the flame...Works every time...Try every 15 seconds or so...Do not heat the glass...You may crack it as old glass formulas were more brittle than new glass...

Once you have the burner off, remove the wick and inspect it...If it starts fallin apart in your hands, measure the flat width and discard...There are replacements made in all old sizes, but probably WalMart will not have the one you need...They are readily available on the net, or give me a yell...

If the wick looks good, replace it in the burner and run it up and down...Make sure it moves freely and evenly...If it works well, pop the top of the burner open...Most are hinged, but some the bell will actually come right off...Either way, run the wick up till there is 1/4 inch above the tube...Cut the wick right across the top of the tube with a sawing motion using a razor blade...Close the bell and run the wick up till you can see appx 1/4 inch...It should look flat still...If not trim accordingly...

Fill the lamp, screw the burner back on, readjust the wick till you can see it above the bell...Put a match to it and turn the wick down inside the bell...Not too far or the flame will extinguish...Place the chimney on the burner making sure that all the tabs are on the outside...Turn the flame up slowly till it just starts to smoke, then reduce flams a smidge...This will be the brightest that the lamp can be burnt effectively...Adjust flame down from there if you do not need all the light...

As for the Lantern...Basically the same...Lanterns usually will have a seperate fill hole with a cap...The rest should be obvious with tis type lantern...The chimney may tip off for lighting, or there may be a lever that raises the whole chimney and the holder it sets in...There are also smaller railroad lanterns that had a seperate font inside that will need to be removed for filling...usually on these types, the top will be hinged and the globe will need to be removed for lighting...

If you get me the specifics as to brand and a pic of the lantern, I can tell you exactly how it works...

With a pic of the pattern of the glass lamp, I should be able to tell you manufacturer and appx. date...

Sorry about the length of the post...I just like kero toys...

Oops...    Posted 02-01-2003 at 15:43:58       [Reply]  [No Email]
"If it is a lamp after 1919 it will have the collar actually moulded in the glass..." should read '1910'...

Stretch    Posted 02-01-2003 at 10:39:29       [Reply]  [No Email]
K1 is cleaner and more refined. K2 is what was previously used for kerosene stoves-we used to call 'em "oil burners" around here. Didn't know it even sold anymore. The companies I know of did away with it and just sell K1, probably just for ease of handling and inventory.

cornfused    Posted 02-01-2003 at 11:23:32       [Reply]  [No Email]
Yeah like you would know! You act like you've hauled the stuff or something.

Stretch    Posted 02-01-2003 at 12:49:26       [Reply]  [No Email]
I know what happens when you forget to flush the hose between #2 fuel oil and K1. 23 gallons of the wrong stuff in the wrong place, and lot's of smoke.

Got my driver's license in an oil truck. Dad's still driving for the same company, since '71.

cornfused    Posted 02-01-2003 at 14:45:36       [Reply]  [No Email]
I knew that.

Ludwig    Posted 02-01-2003 at 10:51:25       [Reply]  [No Email]
Theres a Citgo station that sells K1 and Exxon that sells K2, or at least thats what the pump is labeled as. Maybe the next time I'm up there I'll stop in and ask.

Cindi    Posted 02-01-2003 at 13:02:10       [Reply]  [No Email]
Maybe if you just rub it and wish it'll fill itself up for you! (I am so sorry about that)

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