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Country Discussion Topics
To add your comments to this topic, click on one of the 'Reply' links below.

A follow-up question on the woodstove/brick hearth
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Paula    Posted 05-28-2003 at 06:38:38       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Thanks to the great information I got my first time
posting, I've decided to make the wall behind the
woodstove all brick (instead of just raising the hearth 6'
up the back wall). To take advantage of the high
thermal mass of the brick I'll also remove the heat
shields at the back and beneath the stove. The builder
says that for a brick wall that height (12') it has to be
built double. So that got me to thinking:

-if I leave a space between the two brick walls, put a
cold air register at the bottom of the space on the
woodstove side and hot air registers high on the wall
on both sides of the brick (the back side is the powder
room wall), then shouldn't I increase the efficiency of
the woodstove by creating a current of air (cold air
comes in the bottom of the space, the high thermal
mass heats the air in the gap the hot air rises and goes
out the upper registers)? Or am I taking away efficiency
by allowing the gap (not a very wide gap - just a few
inches) and should let the two layers of brick touch
each other to increase radiant heating?

cheers,
Paula


walt    Posted 05-28-2003 at 09:51:06       [Reply]  [No Email]
One thing I did for safety. I put cement backerboard on the wall, then 1" airspace, then the brick. If you remove the heat shields at the bottom, be careful. I think you can download the manual at Dutchwest that gives minimum distance from different types of material. I still have my install manual. It has data for the small, large and extra-large.


Paula    Posted 05-28-2003 at 10:14:42       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Walt,

thanks for your input.

1. The hearth is 6' wide. There will be two brick walls
behind it (double walls) so I thought the if both walls
were masonry they would be non-combustible right?
There'll be no drywall. The next combustible thing will
be the drywall and door jamb to the bedroom. I dunno,
it has to pass code anyway.

2. The house is built on a slab so the brick hearth rests
on concrete. Do you think that removing the heat
shield from the bottom will make the brick too hot that it
jeopardizes the laminate floor where it abuts (the
hearth floor is 6' long and 3' wide?

Thanks.
Paula


Salmoneye    Posted 05-28-2003 at 10:24:42       [Reply]  [No Email]
Floor will be fine the way you are planning...Not much heat goes 'down' once you have a bed of ash in there anyway...I have used many stoves with no heat shield underneath, even on plain wood floors...

Just remember...If you go with airspace in between the two walls, you will be losing thermal tranfer to the second wall and hence losing some radiant mass...2nd wall will never get as warm as it would if it were in direct contact with the 1st wall...


DeadCarp    Posted 05-28-2003 at 07:55:05       [Reply]  [No Email]
Now you're cookin :) I've seen those kinda things a few feet inside big windows, to trap some free solar heat. One place in wintertime the windows had foil-faced foam shutters that swung down in daytime to double the solar. (hey, the sun provides 120 free degrees even at 30 below) One place we lived, our stone fireplace had a recirculating shell and the vent was a nice cat- & hand-warmer :)


lotsa info on this-    Posted 05-28-2003 at 07:02:25       [Reply]  [No Email]
some energy types refer it to it as a tromb wall.
you'll get spiders & dust in that cavity, but you know that already being an old woodburner, right?


Paula    Posted 05-28-2003 at 07:22:08       [Reply]  [Send Email]
DUH! A trombe wall (slaps self on the forehead) of
course. Why didn't I make the connection - I'm a
passive solar nut from way back (all theory, no
practice). With regards to the spiders and the dust -
well heck, they gotta live somewhere!

Cheers,
Paula


Slofr8    Posted 05-29-2003 at 07:08:45       [Reply]  [No Email]
Paula,
try posting your question here.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/woodheat/



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