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Country Discussion Topics
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Restoring old wide plank floors
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Mark    Posted 08-22-2003 at 06:58:02       [Reply]  [Send Email]
I have some water stained wood floors from leaky radiators, even after sanding.

My farmhouse is 210 years old and I want to restore all the floors one by one over the next couple years. I have been on a number of house restoration sites and they all say "It's simple to fix water stains, first buy my book..."

Anyone have experience with this problem?

I would like to know what the best finish to put on an old wide plank floor is as well. What to the historic sites use. Poly? Shellac? Other. I want the floor to be protected for the next hundred years.

Thanks in advance.

Kay Crow    Posted 03-11-2004 at 15:45:32       [Reply]  [Send Email]
What do you use to remove the adhesive used when linoleum was applied over wooden floors many years ago. Floor looks worth saving and haven't had much luck removing advesive prior to sanding. Need help ASAP, as we have a sander rented for Sat. Thanks loads!!!!

Mark    Posted 03-12-2004 at 06:07:16       [Reply]  [No Email]
We used the sander to remove adhesive.

I some cases, the adhesive gummed up the sander and so we used nasty stripper and hours of elbow grease.

Spence    Posted 08-22-2003 at 14:58:33       [Reply]  [No Email]
Did all my living room (20 X 20) in 2X6X10 building spruce. The clincher is you have to let it dry for a year with 3/4in spacers in between. Get yourself some 3/8in threaded rod and rig a clamp to hold the pile down rigid so it don't twist. I started with kiln dried, but that only gives you a head start in drying by a few percentage points of moisture, so get the ordinary stuff and after a year it will be bone dry.

Use portable planner and take of a shaving on the underside, (side down), and 2 shavings from the top. This should not affect thickness by less than a sixteenth in. Planks will come out beautiful.

Lay some heavy plastic first for drafts an use deck screws in 1/2 countersunk holes about 1/4in
deep. Plug this up with plastic wood. Gives a nice rustic dowel effect. Stain the floor in chestnut
and it comes out beautiful. Don't concern yourself with tongue and grooving, although you can certainly lay in plywood 1/2in spline if you wish.
To me it doesn't really matter as the seam isn't that noticable to make a difference. The floor is too thick to worry about rubbing, there is none.

The thickness of 1-1/2in means you can do square dancing on it too and you don't need underlay. That at 24in centers to boot.

Total cost 400 and something.

If you want to consider it, let me know and I'll send you a pic.

Tom A    Posted 08-22-2003 at 12:06:27       [Reply]  [No Email]
Our farmhouse is a relative newbie--about 110 years old. It has the original pine floors throughout.

My wife and both our Moms sanded the floors a room at a time, and refinished with 3 coats of poly. They did not try to sand to a new look, just to smooth the wood and prep for a finish. Any water stains that didn't sand out were left as part of the "character" of owning an old house.

That was almost 5 years ago and the floors still look beautiful, and are one of the highlights of the house. Everybody who comes to the place comments on the beauty of the floors. One related point: the first of the old wooden doors that they refinished was stripped, bleached, sanded like new...and it just doesn't fit in. We all regret taking that route: new-looking wood belongs in a new house, part of the character of an older house is because the wood is darkened and shows the age some.

just my opinion,

Be Phlatt    Posted 08-22-2003 at 08:17:18       [Reply]  [No Email]
For the black water stains , you will have to be down to bare wood. Start with just plain household bleach ( use eye & skin protection)on a sponge , apply to the water stains and let dry , may have to do several times depending on depth of stain . If after several applications of bleach and you don't get the desired results , try a commercial product like oxalic acid applied the same way (can get at paint or hardware store).When finished bleaching ,neutralize area with 2 parts water 1 part vinegar. As for the sealer , poly would be fine unless you want your restoration to be original , then I'd contact local historical people for correct sealer for that era...(poly wasn't around then)hope this helps.....Phlatt

Scott Hansen    Posted 08-22-2003 at 07:36:23       [Reply]  [Send Email]
wow! This sounds like something I could use. I'll be watching for comments. Please keep us informed.

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