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Country Discussion Topics
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Refinishing hardwood floors
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Murray    Posted 08-23-2003 at 06:30:39       [Reply]  [Send Email]
My next project is to refinish our hardwood floors that have been covered with carpet for the past 35 years. The floor is in the living room and hallway
approximately 600 sq. ft.It is 3/4" oak. The weather is /should be getting a little cooler from the hot humid weather be had for the past couple of months. Was at our local Home Depot and can rent the sanding equipment at their location. Any suggestion, ideas, type of finish product would be appreciated. Cheers, Murray


Lazy Al    Posted 08-23-2003 at 16:42:45       [Reply]  [No Email]
If you go with a drum sander You HAVE to be moving before you rock it and start sanding or you'll leave and little noticable groove in the floor . As it sits there the sandpaper isn't touching the floor you have to rock it .
But make sure you have it moving before you rock it Kinda like an air plane doing a touch and go . It only has to touching a sec. with- out moving and you'll have a groove .
Al


buck    Posted 08-23-2003 at 16:19:27       [Reply]  [No Email]

There are different types of sanders available. The drum sanders cut real fast and take some getting used to. The pad sanders cut slower but are very easy to use and are almost fool proof and have the added advantage of little or no edge sanding required. If your floors are reasonably smoothe I reommend the pad type sanders.Lowes rents them as part of their Veithane system. Before sanding your floors first determine it they can be sanded by checking the thickness of the top groove. If it is thin then added sanding may make so thin that it will crack andyou wind up with big problems. I am partial to Minwax products and each has it advanages. Slow drying=longlasting. If you want something that is ultra fast drying try the Polyclearic but I have found that it is not as long lasting in high traffic areas. Before startin and sanding make sure that you have removed and nails or tacks from the floor as they are death to the sand paper. I am partial to the small long neck plant watering cans for applying the Poly and I like the Verithane applicator pads for smoothing it out. More thin coats are better than than fewer heavy. Some materials require light scuff between coats and others do not but when they do I like to use a pole sander and tack cloth. Should you be staining the floors make sure that the stain and finish are compatiable.


ret    Posted 08-23-2003 at 06:49:20       [Reply]  [No Email]
you didn't say whether you had used a floor sander before. If you have, fine, but if not, it is something that is really hard to use and have it come out right. Some of the pros use a polyurethene, it is tough, can take a beating. They can tell you there


Hardwood Guy    Posted 08-25-2004 at 04:36:57       [Reply]  [Send Email]
As ret alludes to; "have you used a floor sander before?" If not I would suggest practicing on a 4' x 8' piece of plywood first. It doesn't take long to permanently ruin a hardwood floor.


Peach    Posted 08-28-2005 at 15:26:11       [Reply]  [Send Email]
I just used a random orbital sander, rented, to strip a floor down, it was easy. Here is my question, I put two coats of oil based Minwax polyurethene down in a semi-gloss, it looks ok, but when I sanded it down just like a woman I changed my mind and would like to top it off with Satin finish, same product, but not semi-gloss. If there both Minwax products, but different types of finish, is that possible or do I have to stay with the semi-gloss? Would appreciate some help if anyone knows.


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