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Country Discussion Topics
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Wiring problem
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Redneck    Posted 11-26-2003 at 10:26:38       [Reply]  [No Email]
I need to hook up a 220 oven element for a smoker.The switch I have came from another oven but I don't know how to hook it up and not have a major meltdown.Looking at the back it is as follows.
HI #1
P #2
L1 #3
H2 #4
L2 #5

All I want to do is to be able to control the temp and on/off.Are there special kinds of wire to use for heat insulation?How about the terminals?Any help will be appreciated.


Redneck    Posted 11-26-2003 at 13:20:58       [Reply]  [No Email]
Should there be a pilot light on an electric oven switch?Is there some site that might hve diagrams of stove wiring?


Bob/Ont    Posted 11-26-2003 at 13:33:24       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Redneck, it's not a pilot light like a gas burner has to fire it up it's just an indicator light on the dash of the stove to tell you the oven is turned on or off. You don't need it for your smoker. You should have the temp sencer tube thing going into the smoker if you want to control the temp exact.
Later Bob


Redneck    Posted 11-26-2003 at 13:45:19       [Reply]  [No Email]
Indicater light I understand.LOL


Bob/Ont    Posted 11-26-2003 at 13:56:49       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Redneck, Email me and I can make and send you a wiring dwg if you want. Where are you hooking this up? Out in your shop to the 220? It would be nice if you had a small knife switch box with two fuses in it.
Later Bob


Redneck    Posted 11-27-2003 at 02:35:20       [Reply]  [No Email]
I had planned to use one.If the element is 1200 watt,what size fuse would I be need to use?It is the old screw in type fuse box.

Also,I have an existing 220 plug outside.Would there be a conflict since it is on a breaker?Could I put the switch box on a plug and use it that way or would it be better to put a junction box before the plug?


Bob/Ont    Posted 11-27-2003 at 04:59:45       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Think of it this way, The fuse is to protect the conducter(wire) from overload of Amps and since you have a plug wired in to the house/shop where ever. The reset will protect the wire to it from overload. You only need to use a cord from the switch to the wall plug. The fuse box will not conflict with anything but you can get by without it. To figure out the amps use this formula. WATTs = Volts X Amps or 240V X 5 A = 1200 Watts. Your votage is fixed 240/220 the amps are controled by the resistance of the element which is fixed. Normal house wiring is 16 ga solid and fused at 15 amp. Get a plug that mates with your outside plug receptical and use some good ext cord from a hdwr store. It would be nice to have a good size metal box to mount the control into and join all the connections, use "Marrets". Run the Green/Ground through to the box and frame of the smoker as you said, that will trip the reset if a short occures.
Later Bob


Bob/Ont    Posted 11-26-2003 at 11:02:09       [Reply]  [Send Email]
Redneck, do you have a continuity light or an Ohm Meter? The continuity light is like a little flash light with a pin on one end and a wire and clip on the other, batteries and bulb inside, for testing circuits. Just said that incase you call them something different. Check the terminals that connect when you turn the switch on. Two should connect to an other two and not to the other pair. Likely the L's together and the H's together. You likely know this but both wires of the 220 are hot to ground or neutral. Might be good to get a heavy cord to plug that unit in with too. I like the gotton/rubber covered wire best. It would be good to clean and solder the stripped ends of the wire you wrap around the connecting screws if it's not solid you are using. Stranded wire will carry more current and not get as hot as solid wire of the same gauge will.
Later Bob


Lazy Al    Posted 11-26-2003 at 11:01:46       [Reply]  [No Email]
I would think that L1 and L2 Hooks to your power in and H1 and H2 goes to your element .
The P is for a pilot light and it hooks to one side of the light and the other side of the light goes to a nuetral for 110 and to L2 for a 220 pilot light . and yes you should have hi temp wire where the heat is .
See what others say
Al


Willy-N    Posted 11-26-2003 at 17:03:07       [Reply]  [No Email]
Correct, L= Line (incoming power) H= Load (outgoing power) P= Pilot. Mark H.


Redneck    Posted 11-27-2003 at 02:26:41       [Reply]  [No Email]
If you use the two for incoming,where would the ground go?There are no other terminals on the switch.Would it have been grounded to the stove that it came off of?And could I connect the ground to the smoker base on the other end?


Willy-N    Posted 11-27-2003 at 09:57:34       [Reply]  [No Email]
The ground is hooked to the equipment metal housing. Mark H.


Red Dave    Posted 11-26-2003 at 11:34:38       [Reply]  [No Email]
There are so many kinds and styles of switches that it's hard to say for sure, but what you said sounds about right to me.


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