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Well casing
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john    Posted 11-26-2003 at 18:43:14       [Reply]  [Send Email]
I have a leak in my water well casing at 127ft, my well is 407ft deep and i am trying to keep from drilling another well,the water coming in , has a lot of iron in it ,i have a 4 inch galvanive well casing , the water in the well is great until this leak started last week .I am looking for any ideals as for as a simple fix,ive been told about these packards that could help are put a smaller casing in inside the old and using a smaller diameter pump.Any suggestions is appreciated.thanxs

Willy-N Read this    Posted 11-27-2003 at 09:40:22       [Reply]  [No Email]
I just did a seach on the net and found this pertaining to casing a well. Be sure you consult a well driller befor doing it. You do want to stop the flow of water between the different aquifers. Mark H.
36.21.645 PLASTIC CASING (1) All plastic casing shall be installed only in an oversized drill hole without driving. Wells cased with plastic shall have steel casing extending a minimum of 18 feet below the surface and 18 inches above the ground surface. Plastic casing to be used must be specifically designed for water well construction and bears NSF approval. Methods of installation shall be:

a. by installing a larger size steel casing on the outside of the plastic casing with a minimum of 4 feet of overlap (Figure 6A at the end of this sub-chapter); or

b. by attaching directly to the plastic casing a threaded plastic to steel coupling (Figure 6B).

(2) Thermoplastic well casing shall conform with American Society for Testing and Materials Specification F480-81 or latest revision as follows:

a. minimum standards dimension ratio shall be 26 for inner casing in bedrock applications;

b. minimum standards dimension ratio shall be 21 for unconsolidated formations greater than 125 feet;

c. minimum pipe stiffness shall be 224 foot-pounds/in2 [kiloneutron (meter . meter)] when tested according to section 5.4.1 of American Society for Testing and Materials Specification F480;

d. all casing 5 inches [12.7 centimeters] and larger shall be tested for impact resistance and shall meet or exceed IC-1 impact classification according to section 6.5 and table 6 of American Society for Testing and Materials Specification F480;

e. carry the seal of the national sanitation foundation.

(3) All casing shall have additional thickness and weight if standard thickness is not capable of withstanding forces to which it is subject.

(4) The well casing must be clearly marked by the manufacturer showing: nominal size, type plastic material, standard dimension ratio (SDR), ASTM designation, and national sanitation foundation seal of certified approval.

(5) The use of plastic well casing in connection with a pitless adaptor is not acceptable.

36.21.646 PLASTIC CASING JOINTS (1) All casing joints shall be watertight. Either "bell" type or coupling hubs or threaded couplings are approved. Hub couplings shall be of material meeting the specifications for plastic casings as stipulated in ARM 36.21.645. Solvent cemented joints shall be made in accordance with manufacturer's directions.

36.21.647 TOP TERMINAL HEIGHT (1) The casing head or pitless unit of any water well shall extend not less than 18 inches above the finished ground surface or pump house floor, and not less than 18 inches above the local surface runoff level. No casing shall be cut off below land surface except

during permanent abandonment of a well. The ground surface immediately surrounding the top of the well casing or pitless unit shall be graded so as to drain surface water away from the well. The casing of any water well shall extend not less than 18 inches above the established 100 year floodplain elevation or be capped with a watertight seal and vented above flood level

36.21.648 CASING OPENINGS (1) There shall be no opening in the casing wall between the top of the casing and the bottom of the required casing seal except for pitless adapters, screened vents (inverted u-construction), measurement access ports, and grout nipples installed in conformance with these standards.

a. All pitless adaptors must be installed according to manufacturers specifications.

(2) In no case shall holes be cut in the casing wall for the purpose of lifting or lowering casing into the well bore, unless such holes are properly welded closed and watertight prior to placement into the well bore.

36.21.649 CASING CENTRALIZERS (1) Well casing to be sealed into an oversize drill hole should be equipped with centering guides to ensure the proper centering of a casing. In all events, casings shall be centered in the sealed interval. Guides should be of steel, at least 1/4 inch in thickness, evenly spaced in groups of 3 or 4 in 20 foot intervals or less. (See Figure 1.)

36.21.650 CASING PERFORATIONS (1) Perforations above the lowest expected static water level shall not be permitted. Wells may be completed with perforations as follows:

a. in-place perforations with star, mills knife, similar type perforators, millslotted, sawed, or drilled;

b. perforated inner casing, either torch-cut, millslotted or punched. Such inner casing may be of steel, plastic or other suitable corrosion-resistant material, but if other than steel, a full evaluation of the structural stability of the inner casing must be made prior to its placement. They may be used in a natural development or gravel packed type of construction. Where appropriate, the top of the inner casing shall be fitted with suitable packers or sealing material and sealed to the well casing.

(2) Casing perforations that allow the well casing to act as a conduit for deleterious interflow between aquifers shall

not be permitted. (That is, interflow where waters of different heads, temperatures, or quality mix causing deleterious effects.)

(3) Perforations shall not be placed to allow cascading water within the well casing during static conditions.

(4) Perforations shall not be placed to allow upward art-esian flow from one aquifer to another.

Joe Smith    Posted 04-28-2005 at 14:34:25       [Reply]  [Send Email]
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Joe Smith    Posted 04-28-2005 at 14:15:01       [Reply]  [Send Email]
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Charles(Mo)    Posted 11-27-2003 at 03:58:07       [Reply]  [No Email]
John, the first thing I would do, is to talk to a driller or a pump man. They might be able to seal the casing. I don't think putting a smaller diameter pipe inside of the old casing is going to solve your problem. The water from the leak will travel down between the 2 casings.

Are you sure the casing is 4 inch diameter? Around here well casing is 6 inches. And it is either cast iron or pvc. not galvenized. If it is 4 inches, you probably won't find a pump any smaller.

If it is leaking in at one place, it might be leaking in elsewhere too.

You might consider a water softener. It would be cheaper than a new well.

Do you know how old the well is? Any thing you do will cost. A quik fix might be expensive, and will probably only be temporary.


Lazy Al    Posted 11-27-2003 at 03:17:38       [Reply]  [No Email]
John .
I have a question How do you know you have leak at 127 foot . Even if you put a pipe inside your four inch wouldn't it still leak in and run down along the out side of the smaller pipe ?

rancho calypso    Posted 11-28-2003 at 04:55:26       [Reply]  [Send Email]
I am still wondering as Al about how it has been determined there is a leak at 127'. How deep is the well overall? I have seen wells where they use perforated pipe for the last 20' to 40' to allow more water into the pump area; therefore I am unsure as to why this should be a problem. The quality of the water might clear up a bit as this leak continues. I would worry mostly about a caved in and thus no water hole.

Willy-N    Posted 11-27-2003 at 09:12:46       [Reply]  [No Email]
Unless the flow at the 127 ft level is not stronger then the flow at the bottom the water should stay stagnet between the casing and the sleave. If it had enought presure to go up to the top that is where it would be now so it won't flow over the top of the sleave. If he is concerned about some of the water working down the sleave he could put a neopream O-Ring on a couple of couplings that are on the lower pipes below the leaking area to stop the flow. Mark H.

Lazy Al    Posted 11-28-2003 at 05:08:49       [Reply]  [No Email]
I'm still waiting for John to tell us how he determined where the leak is Willy . I don't buy the fact that water won't contuine to mix .
but I'm far from an expert . If you put a drop of food coloring in a gal of water It goes all over the gal of water .
If you could put o rings on the sleeve why couldn't you seal it up some other way like slide a seal of some sort down the stand pipe ?

Willy-N    Posted 11-26-2003 at 20:36:19       [Reply]  [No Email]
You could sleave it with 3 1/2 inch PVC and check into a pump that will fit into it. You will need to find out what level your water enters the well it not right at the bottom. That way you can slot the PVC at the right level if needed. You can do that by using a power saw and fine tooth blade to cut slots every 1/2 inch 1/4 of the way into the PVC all the way around it. I had one well sleaved with 5 inch PVC because the steel casing could not be driven deeper into the drilled hole in the rock. Has been working great for over 18 years and the same pump is still pumping at the 380 ft level. When you put the pipe in use 20 ft lengths and use primer with a good glue on the factory couplings (which are longer)on the pipe. Don't drop one in the well and if you put the pipe in with the coupling last you can make a jig that the pipe slips in but not the coupling to hold it while you glue another one on. Be sure to let it dry good. Might help to rig up a Tri/Pod above the well casing to steady the PVC. Keep track of the pipe lengths so the last pipe is below the pitless adapter or just below the top of the casing if you pump from out of the top of the pipe. Use schedual 40 if your pump will fit inside. More water in the casing the easier/lighter it will be to lower the pipe. Mark H.

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