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Country Discussion Topics
To add your comments to this topic, click on one of the 'Reply' links below.

Installing Wood Stove and Stove Piping
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Lynn Busby    Posted 12-17-2003 at 07:19:14       [Reply]  [Send Email]
I'm preparing to put a Shenandoah barrel-type wood stove in my 40 x 60 metal-siding shop and need your advice.

1. How far from the wall should I place the stove?
2. I prefer to not go through the roof with the pipe...how can I work it to go out the side? The sides are 12' high. How can I create the right amount of updraft? The pipe hole is located on top of the stove.
3. The shop is insulated with styrofoam panels with reflective paper(about 1"thick). How do I run the piping through it without melting or catching it on fire?
4. Any particular spot I should place the stove to get the most out of the heat?
Thanks, Lynn




Jerry Bliler    Posted 12-17-2003 at 22:17:11       [Reply]  [Send Email]
You will need to get the foam away from the pipe!that foam burns well. I also used a sheet of sheet asbestos to line the wall. Yes I know about asbestos, I am not chewing on it. It is the best fire shield out there and is now hard to get. In it's place now you can use "cement board". Same as is used for flooring. Space it out from the wall so that air can get between the wall and the panel. Air will naturally flow up in the gap, more heat where you want it! If you want, I could send a picture of my setup. I heat a 30 by 40 shed and the stove gets to thumping now and then too!


PatM    Posted 12-17-2003 at 11:57:27       [Reply]  [No Email]
Here's a link to some good info. You need to have Adobe Acrobat reader.

Wood Stove Install Details"

Since you're on the internet try this:

Google search for "wood stove installation"


Salmoneye    Posted 12-17-2003 at 08:23:23       [Reply]  [No Email]
While I really would like to tell you just how to do this, I feel from your questions that you really need some professional help in this installation...

Once you have seen it done, it will be easy for you in the future...

I just do not feel good about helping any more than the following info...

I will tell you that you will need two 90-degree elbows if you want to go through the wall, and for each 90 degree bend you will need to add an extra 3-5 feet in elevation to the pipe in order to compensate for the lack of draft...You will also need a section of insulated pipe to go through the wall or the roof...You would also need a way (usually brackets) to hold the pipe off the outside wall at a suitable distance...

If I were installing I would make the run straight through the roof and save stack height...

Rule of thump is take the length of the stove and multiply by at least 3 (usually 4-5 times the stove length for a good draw) for a straight vertical run of pipe and then add 3-5 feet in height for every 90 degree bend...


HA!    Posted 12-17-2003 at 11:26:19       [Reply]  [No Email]
Rule of thump ---- hahahahaa! I've had a wood stove thumpin before! Too much dry wood too soon, on too hot of coals while I was too cold! Couldn't resist there old Sam & I. Mike D.


TimV    Posted 12-17-2003 at 08:06:17       [Reply]  [No Email]
Lynn: Without knowing where you live, and by extension, the local codes, it's hard to say. However, the "right way" would be to use triple-wall pipe and a "thimble" (basically a tube within a tube, with an air gap seperating the two) to go through the wall. This is also expensive--triple-wall will run $50-$75 for a 3' section. Ideally, the flue should exit above the roofline. I'd put the stove at least 2' away from the wall, and 3' is probably better.


deadcarp    Posted 12-17-2003 at 15:05:11       [Reply]  [No Email]
yeah offhand i'd go 3 feet away from a wall, near the biggest window, (coldest part of any room) go straight up with the pipe, use screwed-together black stovepipe til i got within about 3 feet of the ceiling and then that insulated stainless stuff for the very top, then end that 3 feet above any roof within 12 feet. with that setup, just get a good fire going and rap on the pipe to clean it. all the fly ash will drop back into the fire and burn once it gets hot enough.


now you can use a damper if you want - i think they're a hazard and a waste of time so never use them. the draft is the throttle plain and simple. sure more air means a hotter fire, less air cools it down but why would anyone choke off the top of a fire?


btw if you toss too much oil or rubber or something silly in there & it starts thumping, don't panic and try to put it out. it's gasping and needs more air - open the door a crack and keep an eye on it for a minute - once it heats the pipe up it'll settle down - trust me :)



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